Pain, technique, endurance and fun! Lot’s of Fun!
I already spent two weeks in this beautiful Indian Creek! The first days it felt like I needed to start from zero again. Slowly I pushed the grades and tried harder routes with my meat hooks. The day before my last blog post I tried some 5.12’s on the fingers. I twisted my left middle finger to much in those thin cracks and he was a bit swollen. So the day after that rest day I had to take it easy and just did one big hand crack. It’s the same finger that I broke 5 years ago. I know what kind of pain it was then and it was exactly the same 5 days ago. I used some crazy cream called ‘Herbal Heat’. It’s a completely natural cream whit lot of arnica in it. It’s a cream made by two climbers who live in Bishop, they also make the skin repair cream ‘Sierra Salve’ that works really well! I’ve tried the ‘Herbal Heat’ in the evening, the next morning my finger wasn’t swollen at all. This cream really works a lot. It was still a sample but I hope they keep making this magic salve!
After that day I took another rest day and went hiking on my own in Canyon Lands. I hiked about 10 miles (16,09km) in the afternoon. This was one of the best hikes I ever made. The view is amazing, just check out the pictures.
Then last Friday I went climbing again! I was completely rested a super psyched to crush those cracks (and my hands). That day I did my first 5.12-. It was an amazing hand-crack corner that goes through a roof at the end! This line is called ‘T-bones Tonight’ and located on the second Meat wall. The first 17 meters the crack is pretty small and easier with small hands.
I laid it back until where it was size number two BD Camelot where I could jam my big hands in! The roof was size number three BD Camelot what was still a really good size for me. I love this kind of big hand cracks through a roof. I fell on my on sight in the roof and did it second go afterwards. I was even more psyched to climb after that day!
Next day I had an easy day again to rest my finger a little bit. The high point of the day was when I did ‘Fist Fuck’, a long overhanging 5.11 with a roof on fists (for normal people). There are not that many people that try this one because fist cracks aren’t very popular! The funny thing was that I did it with only one fist. Al the other moves I just jammed with my big hands, sometimes I had to use cupped hands.
Yesterday I went climbing with Joe, a local here who lives in Moab. This was really nice, we went really early and he took me on some hard climbs! I did my second 5.12- named ‘Swedin- Ringle’ I did it also second go. First go I fell on the anchors. This is one of the best lines I’ve climbed here, although it is a hard size for me. It is size number one Camelot, what is really good for people with small hands. I learned in this line how to place proper ring-locks with my fingers. I really love it, I start learning how to jam different sizes and I can flow through some nice lines now. The crux is clipping the anchors with a left hand finger-lock and the tips of your toes jammed in the small crack.
I also tried the second part of this line on top-rope, this is called ‘Air Swedin’. The name tells what it is all about. After the anchors of the first part, which you don’t clip, you place two or three small Camelot’s size .4 and .5 and you go into a small crack with you right hand and a slopy rail with your left hand. You go up about 2 or 3 meters above your last piece of gear and that’s the crux. The grade of this awesome line is 5.13R. The R means that it’s pretty dangerous. But it’s still better then the X (= chance to die).
I’m really psyched about this line, I really think I can do it! Just get some bigger balls and go up high!I learned so much about crack climbing last two weeks here. Every crack is so different and always such a different style depending of the size. The most important thing I learned is that the grades aren’t saying much. Everything is depending of the size of your hands. If you have big hands a fist crack will be good and a thing finger-crack will be the hardest struggle ever (I already experienced)! I saw good crack climbers struggling on ‘Fist Fuck’, only 5.11, just because they have small hands. So what I need to do right now is searching for a nice crack on my limit that fits my size! And then I’ll do the opposite, I’ll search a hard line that isn’t my hand/finger size at all!
By now there are a lot of people I now here in the creek. We are with a nice group of people now that are here on their own to. Having a lot of fun. Climbing wise I think this is my favorite spot until now! It’s big here with so many beautiful lines! I’m also psyched to try an off width. An off width is a crack larger than a fist-size crack and smaller then a chimney. I hope to have some pictures of some off width climbing by next week.
When I was in Bishop, Five Ten US had sent me some crack climbing shoes that I’m trying out right now. It’s the new Moccasim, called SuperMocc. It’s basically the same but the SuperMocc is a little bit thinner on the tip and has extra rubber on top. I love those shoes for cracks size thin hands and smaller! Smearing is great to because of their flat and wide surface!
Enjoy the pictures and keep following my blog!
|Try 5.10||No name crack|
|5.10||Where is carruthers?|
|5.10||The naked and the dead|
|5.11||Right of the naked and the dead|
|5.11+||Meat ya later|
|13/04/2011||5.10+||Hay U Take|
|15/04/2011||5.10+||Tube steakes tomorrow|
|5.11-||At Your Cervix|
|17/04/2011||5.11||Three strikes You’re out|