Siebe Vanhee | Realisations
Official website of the professional rock climber and adventurer Siebe Vanhee
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Realisations

Need for Exploration

To fulfill my need for exploration, challenge and just that personal amount of excitement, a remote expedition is what I need.

 

“El Regalo de Mwono” Free – Torres del Paine, Chile 2017

Teammates: Nicolas Favresse (BEL) & Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll (BEL)

Realisation(s): First free ascent of the artificial line ‘El Regalo de Mwono’ VI 5.11 A4 on torre central East face opened in 1992 by the Scottish team of Paul Pritchard, Simon Yates, Sean Smith and Noel Craine. A mere 19 days were spent on the wall in difficult Patagonian weather to freeclimb all the 26 pitches at the grade 5.13b (8a) of this 1200 meter large face.

 

“Big Walls Big Seas” – South Greenland 2016

Teammates: Lionel Daudet (FRA) and Enzo Odo (FRA)

Realisation(s): Mixed sailing and big wall climbing expedition searching for unclimbed lines. First Ascents (FA) of 5 new Big Wall climbs, some of them all free climbed, some of them partly free climbed.

  • “Belgian-French Route” / Baroness / 13 pitches – 665 m climbing / 7c A2 / Four day ascent using fixed ropes.
  • “Belgian-French Route” / Question Mark Wall / 7 pitches – 400m climbing / 7a free / One day ascent
  • “Belgian-French Route” / The Thumbnail / 24 pitches – 1355 m climbing / 7b/+ free / Six day ascent Big Wall style
  • “The Mechanician” / The Saft Wall or Igdlorsuit Havn / 19 pitches – 850 m climbing / 7b+/c A1 / 3 days fixing and 3 days Big Wall style
  • “The Splitter” / The Saft Wall or Igdlorsuit Havn / 23 pitches – 950 m climbing / 7c+ A1 / Starting from anchor of pitch 6 of “The Mechanician” 2 more days Big Wall style and everything free climbed.

 

“MAD” in Madagascar 2015

Teammates:  Seán Villanueva O Driscoll (BEL)

Realisation(s): Ground up bolting and first ascent of a new and challenging line on the Tsaranoro Atsimo Wall in the Tsaranoro massif in the South of Madagascar.

FA and FFA (First Free Ascent) of “Fire in The Belly” / Tsaranoro Atsimo / 12 pitches – 700 m / 8a++
FA: 6 days Big Wall style
FFA: 3 days Big Wall style

 

The North Face “Common Ground” Expedition Siberia 2015 

Teammates: Iker and Eneko Pou (ESP), Jacopo Larcher (IT) and Hansjörg Auer (AUT)

Realisation(s): An expedition in the remote Siberian tundra on a quest to find new and virgin rock climbs together with a polyvalent team of climbers. All climbs are first ascents.

  • “Wake Up in Siberia” / The General / 5 pitches – 240m / 6b
  • “Red Corner” / The Commander /  11 pitches – 450m / 7c+ / 3 days fixing (all free)
  • “Sketchy Django” / The Monk / 7 pitches – 400m / 6a+
  • “From Zero to Hero” / The General / 11 pitches – 490m / 7a+
  • “Aupa!” / The General / 8 pitches – 300m / 6c
  • “Mosquito Rock Tour” / The General / 9 pitches – 450m / 7a+
  • “Into the Wild” / The Commander / 9 pitches – 425m / 7a
  • “The Two Parrots” / The Commander / 9 pitches – 325m /7a

 

“The Changing Minds” – South Greenland 2014

Teammates: Tim De Dobbeleer (BEL)

Realisation(s): The key word of this trip is “Autonomy”. Five weeks we climbed, hiked and kayaked in the wild and divers nature in the South of Greenland carrying our gear and food supplies with us at all times. Adventure and surprises guaranteed!

  • Repetition of “War and Poetry” / Ulamertorsuaq / 30 pitches – 1000 m / 5.12c / 2,5 days Big Wall style
  • Repetition of “British Route” / Nalumertorsuak / 19 pitches – 600m / 5.12+ / one day ascent
  • First Ascent of Dreadlock Peak / 8 pitches – 370 m climbing / 6c+/7a / Fixing lines, two day ascent
  • Attempt on The Thumbnail
  • Many kilometers hiking and kayaking loaded with Big Wall gear.

 

“The Deep Waters of Vietnam” 2013

Teammates: George Ullrich, Jake Rogers, Matthew Burdekin and Liam Lonsdale (All Great Britain)

Realisation(s): Two weeks on a boat around Cat ba Island on a search for new Deep Water Solo cliffs. We climbed many stunning and spectacular lines unroped up to 20 meters above the water.

 

“Big Ass Jungle Climbing” – Venezuela 2012

Teammates: George Ullrich (GB), Sam Farnsworth (GB) and Mason Kinloch Earl (USA)

Realisation(s): Over 15 days the team successfully weaved an improbable and intricate path directly behind Salto Tuyuren topping out within a stones throw of where the waterfall burst off the summit of Amuri Tepuy, one of the many table mountains in Canaima National Park. We climbed the First Ascent of the wall with the climb “Kids With Guns” / Amuri Tepuy / 21 pitches – 450m / 5.13a A3 (E6 6c) / fixing ropes and big wall style, 12 days on the wall. Most of the pitches have been done free.

 

Personal and Meaningful Ascents

 

Besides achieved expeditions there are certain single- and multi-pitch climbs I would like to add to the list of realisations.

Multi-pitch (Trad)

  • “Porte Interiori” / Poncione d’Alnasca (IT) / 16 pitches – 560 meters / 8a – Second Free Ascent / 04/2015
  • “Super Cirill / Val Bavona (IT) / 8 pitches / 8a – All onsight except the third 7c+ pitch, this one I did second go / 04/2015
  • “Divine Providence” / Grand Pilier d’Angle (FRA, Mont Blanc) / 900 meter / ABO 7c / Onsight all free in two days and one more day topping out on Mont Blanc and descending. / 06/2013
  • “El Techo de Frey” / Aguya de Frey (Argentina)/ 4 pitches / 7c+ Third free ascent after Nicolas Favresse and Sean Villanueva O’ Driscoll / 05/2012
  • “The Northern Lights” / Chief , Squamish BC / 5.12a all Onsight / 07/2011
  • “Astroman” / Yosemite, US / 5.11c All Onsight / 06/2011
  • “West Face of El Cap” / Yosemite, US / 5.11c Onsight (one fall P6)/ 06/2011

 

Single-pitch (Trad)

  • “Book Cake” 7c+, Cadarese, Italy, 06/2016
  • “Turkey Crack” 8a, Cadarese Italy, 06/2016
  • “Belly Full of Bad Berries” 5.13, Indian Creek, USA, 04/2014
  • “The Doors” 8a+/b, Cadarese, Italy, 07/2013
  • “Greenspit” 8b/+, Valle del Orco, Italy, 08/2012
  • “Air Swedin” 5.13R, Indian Creek, USA, 05/2011

 

Sportclimbing

 

In my earlier years of climbing I won several Belgian lead climbing competitions and was high in ranking in boulder competitions (2006 – 2010). Once my focus shifted to rock climbing I managed to raise my sport climbing level up to 8c. Recently (2015 – 2016) I managed to climb two 8c+’s (“Mind Control” in Oliana, Spain, and “La Rubia” in Villanueva del Rosario, Spain) and repeat a few more 8c’s.