The Doors and Grazie Ricky – Cadarese splitter fun!
|The Doors on the right on the face.|
Since last summer I had been thinking about going to Cadarese. Not only for the amazing single pitch crack climbs I would go there but I had one specific route in mind. ‘The Doors’ (8b) is an amazing splitter crack of 35 meters. Originally ‘The Doors’ has been opened as a sport route, with bolts. But recently the Italian guy Matteo Della Bordella chopped the bolts and climbed it free on natural protection. This is what makes the line pure again!
After my on sight success of Ave Cesar in the Petit Clocher du Portalet I decided to give this route a good on sight attempt to. I read the crack, prepared what I thought that would be the right gear for it and put myself into jamming mode! With a little stress I entered the crack smoothly but then some hesitation came. Only a few meters of the ground I came out stupidly, I made a little mistake and my on sight attempt was over. I pulled myself back up and climbed quickly and easily to the crux in the middle. I checked out the middle section moves and climbed to the last tricky crux moves at the end. Both cruxes I could do quickly so I think a better on sight attempt was possible but a mistake is quickly made. So the next goal for me was obvious, I would try to do it second go!
This time no stress or what we call ‘brain farts’ while giving it a second go. I knew the moves and the gear by heart and only had to dance it up to the top. And so I did, I climbed The Doors in my second go. When you do the moves of a crack climb right and precise and realise to send it things can suddenly feel easy, this time it was no different. About the quotation of this route I have to say it felt slightly harder then the crux pitch of Ave Cesar in this similar style. I would give it a grade of 7c+/8a but every climber is different and like we know is every crack different for every other climber. Cracks are a lot of the times size dependent so grades are useless in this style of climbing. You fit or you don’t.
After three weeks of granite climbing I had found it, it was back into my body. I started to move really smoothly in all the routes I tried and had a good feeling. Also my head was free of scared thoughts of falling onto little gear. I placed gear well and trusted every peace, and even if not I went for it. It’s such a good feeling when you’re used to the rock and the movements. Having a good headspace makes the climbing even better.
|We found a new little house!|
On our last day I tried a bolted route called ‘Grazie Ricky’ (8a). This sport route has some vertical edges and a compression section in the middle but also looks a lot like a crack climb. From a first look at the route it was clear to me that it would go without the bolts. The start of Grazie Ricky shares a crack with a 7b+ on the left where after it passes a ‘fridge climbing’ section without much natural protection. There after protection is good up to the final crux at the end. You place one last good friend and the last little game has to go quickly. You move out of the crack and climb on some perfect horizontal ledges, one big lock off and run it out up to easier ground and finish the route. Also this one I could climb smoothly on my second try. This climb was more in the trad climbing style of the British. Again an amazing bolted line in Cadarese waiting to be relieved of its bolts by some Italian guy?
- Elixir D’Astaroth – ED+ 7a+ – 14 pitches – Grand Capucin
- Les Intouchables – ABO 7b+ – 7 pitches – Trident Du Tacul – Onsight
- Voyages Selon Guilliver – ED 7a – 14 pitches – Grand Capucin
- Bridwell Crack – ED 7b+ – 6 pitches – Petit Clocher Du Tacul – Onsight
- Divine providence – ABO 7b+ – 900 m – Grand Pillier d’Angle top out on Mont Blanc – Onsight
- Ave Cesar – ABO 7c – 8 pitches (250 m) – Petit Clocher du Portalet – Onsight
- The Doors – 8b (7c+) – Cadarese – Second go
- Grazie Ricky – 8a (Trad) – Cadarese – Second Go